After my initial visit to Larkin's in September, I returned to the Eagle Rock eatery an additional three times in as many weeks. The third visit proved futile, as JP and I were told that it didn't serve dinner on Sundays. How unSouthern! Starting at 4 p.m., with fixings such as biscuits, gravy, fried chicken and enough food to feed a high school football team on Thanksgiving, Sunday dinner is perhaps the most important meal of the week. On my most recent stop to Larkin's, I shared with the co-owner, Joshua, how blasphemous it was for him to rest on the night of the Sabbath. I understand that he and the cook need a night off. At first, they thought of closing on Tuesday nights, Joshua said. But at the last minute they decided to serve on Tuesdays and rest on Sundays. Now that the Tuesday night business keeps improving, they are loath to keep the startup dark on that particular weekday night. But the good news is that, as they develop their sea legs in the tumultuous culinary industry, they might open one or two times a month on Sundays, offering live music and accommodating only people who've made reservations. "Pray for us," Joshua said. A non-Christian, I never did memorize the Lord's Prayer, even though I was forced to recite it before every marching band performance at my South Carolina high school. But just for the sake of my stomach, I made one up really fast on the behalf of Larkin's. And then I ate.
The special appetizer on this particular Saturday afternoon was fried macaroni and cheese balls. Joshua joked that they looked like brains. They were compact comfort food. It's something I would have stuffed into my pocket and eaten on the edge of a creek while poking at crawfish with a stick.
The meatloaf sandwich would have tasted better served on Wonder Bread instead of a slightly chewy French roll, which I thought might have been a concession to gourmet Angelenos.
Having just finished a hike in Pasadena, JP and I were stark raving hungry when we arrived at Larkin's. Look at his dervish hands tear apart the fried chicken!
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