Katsuya

Philippe Starck designed the new Japanese restaurant Katsuya that recently opened in Brentwood. Though the location is what the French would describe as BCBG, or bon chic bon genre, the decor was a hybrid of a Japanese tea house and a French boite. Of all the sushi, sashimi and katsuyaki that I tasted at Katsuya's opening party, the spicy tuna rolls were the best. I am usually a snob about my sushi. I demand that nothing taints the pure flavor of the fish, although I make an exception for negitoro because toro is the food of the gods. I have never liked spicy tuna rolls. But Katsuya grilled the rice with some soy sauce and layered the mash of chopped up tuna and chili sauce, along with a slice of jalopeno, on top. The restaurant's signature drink is a Norihito -- a mojito made with fresh mint, watermelon and cucumbers. Countering the hyper-bourgeois setting were the eerie photos decorating the walls. The back wall was covered with a photo of a woman’s kohl-lined eyes, another wall showed one of glistening crimson lips, a third displayed a picture of a powdered hand. Did Monsieur Starck want diners to debate metaphysical issues about nibbling on freshly cut raw fish while gazing at a dismembered geisha? Missy said the photography reminded her of the horror flick "The Grudge."

Tweet